Founded in 1947, Langer's Delicatessen
and Restaurant has served generations of patrons for more than
59 years. What better introduction to Langer's than this,
by David
Shaw writing for the James Beard
Foundation in commemoration of our America's Classics
award:
In Los Angeles, where any business
that stays open for more than five years is likely to proclaim
itself a "legendary institution," Langer's Delicatessen is
the real thing. Langer's is also a living microcosm of the
Los Angeles story, from dramatic post-war growth through all
the triumphs and tribulations, changes and challenges that
have followed.
Opened in 1947 with just 12
seats, almost forced out of business by recession and the urban
blight of drugs and gangs in the early 90s, then rescued
by — of all things in Los Angeles, a subway! — Langer's
lives on, serving what many deli aficionadoes on both coasts
consider the best pastrami sandwich in America. Norm Langer
started working for his dad, Al, in 1963, and he's been there
virtually every day since. His father, now 88, — still
comes in for a few hours three or four days a week to help
out with the lunch rush and greet longtime customers, many
of whom recognize the children in the family photos on the
walls.
Just west of downtown,
in a neighborhood more shabby than chic, on a street corner
at Seventh and Alvarado in a heavily Latino area, adjacent
to a burgeoning Korea Town, it draws an eclectic and loyal
clientele — including at least one Korean businessman who calls
Langer's pastrami "Jewish
kimchee."
Nora Ephron, writing
in The New Yorker, graciously
provides a fitting tribute to our hot pastrami sandwich:
The hot pastrami sandwich served at Langer's Delicatessen
in downtown Los Angeles is the finest hot pastrami sandwich in
the world. This is not just my opinion, although most people
who know about Langer's will simply say it's the finest hot pastrami
sandwich in Los Angeles because they don't dare to claim that
something like a hot pastrami sandwich could possibly be the
best version of itself in a city where until recently you couldn't
get anything resembling a New York bagel, and the only reason
you can get one now is that New York bagels have deteriorated.
. . . .
The resulting sandwich, slathered with Gulden's
mustard, is an exquisite combination of textures and tastes.
It's soft but crispy, tender but chewy, peppery but sour, smoky
but tangy. It's a symphony orchestra, different instruments brought
together to play one perfect chord. It ...
is, in short, a work of art.
Located across from historic
MacArthur Park, Langer's is
an important part of Los Angeles' rich cultural heritage, a tradition
carefully managed by Norm, his wife Jeanette, and daughter Trisha.
Visit us soon.
Langers: 2001 James Beard Foundation winners of the Bertolli Olive
Oil America's Classics Award
Langers is the proud recipient of a coveted James
Beard Foundation award. The Bertolli America's Classics Award
is presented each year to a select few restaurants
noted for timeless appeal, beloved for quality food
that reflects the history and character of their communities.
The establishment must have been in existence for at least 10
years and be locally owned and operated. Langer's Restaurant
is proud and grateful for the James Beard Foundation's acknowledgement
of its role in Los Angeles restaurant history. You may learn
more about our award here and here on the James Beard Foundation
site. When you visit us, please make sure you inspect our award,
which hangs just behind the register at the hostess station. |