Mashed: This Classic LA Deli Has Been Perfecting Pastrami Since 1947
We are grateful to Mashed.com and writer Cynthia Mersten for her coverage of the deli:
Los Angeles is the city of stars, yet the pastrami at Langer’s Delicatessen in Los Angeles is a star in its own right. The best way to enjoy it is in the form of a sandwich called the No. 19. The deli opened in 1947, and its founder, Al Langer, developed the flagship sandwich. The No. 19 combines hot pastrami, Swiss cheese, coleslaw, Russian dressing, and rye bread. The item gained acclaim during the 1950s and ’60s, and it has become a favorite among entertainers, food critics, and screenwriting royalty like Nora Ephron.
Today, Langer’s is run by Al’s son, Norm Langer. In a glowing 2002 New Yorker article written by Ephron, Norm shared that most delis would steam their pastrami for 30 to 45 minutes. However, Langer’s goes farther with the process. “We take that piece of pastrami, put it into our steamer, and steam it for almost three hours,” Norm explained. “It will shrink twenty-five to thirty percent, but it’s now tender — so tender it can’t be sliced thin in a machine because it will fall apart. It has to be hand-sliced.”
The whole hand-slicing component is part of what makes the pastrami so succulent and prevents it from becoming rubbery. The deli’s founder honed that skill while working at New York delis. Another key to making the sandwich scrumptious involves using par-baked bread that Langer’s finishes baking on site, ensuring it is piping hot.
